Step 1: Choose Your Business Entity
The business structure you choose affects taxes, liability, and how you get paid. Most contractors choose one of three:
LLC (Limited Liability Company) — Best for most small contractors. Protects personal assets from business lawsuits. Simple to set up ($50–$500 in most states). Taxed as a pass-through (no double taxation). Single-member LLCs are common for solo contractors.
S-Corp — Better once you're making $75,000+ net profit annually. Allows you to pay yourself a reasonable salary and take remaining profits as distributions (avoiding self-employment tax on the distribution portion). Requires more administration.
Sole Proprietor — Easiest to start but no liability protection. Your personal assets are at risk if a client sues. Fine for day-one operations but upgrade to LLC before taking on significant projects.
Our recommendation: Start as an LLC. Cost is minimal; protection is significant.
Step 2: Get Your Contractor's License
Licensing requirements vary by state — see our complete state-by-state guides. General requirements across most states:
- Experience documentation — typically 2–4 years in the trade
- Written exam — Business & Law + Trade knowledge (via PSI or Prometric in most states)
- Insurance — General liability ($300K–$1M) is usually required before you can apply
- Application + fees — $100–$500 depending on state and license level
Pro tip: Many contractors work under a licensed contractor's supervision first. This builds documented experience AND income while you prepare for your own license.
Step 3: Get Insured and Bonded
Insurance is not optional. Without it, one lawsuit can wipe out your business and personal assets.
General Liability Insurance — $1M per occurrence is the industry standard. Expect $80–$200/month for a small contractor. Required by most GCs before they'll hire you as a sub.
Workers' Compensation — Required if you have employees in almost every state. Even if you're solo, some GCs require it for subs. Rates vary by trade risk class (roofing is expensive; painting is cheaper).
Commercial Auto — Covers your work truck and tools in transit. Your personal auto policy does NOT cover commercial use.
Inland Marine (Tools & Equipment) — Covers tools stolen from your truck or job site. Often overlooked; very affordable ($25–$75/month).
Builder's Risk — Covers the project under construction. Often provided by the GC on commercial jobs; required on residential contracts you own.
Step 4: Set Up Your Business Systems
Professional systems separate contractors who stay small from those who scale.
Accounting software — QuickBooks or FreshBooks. Track every dollar in and out. Use job costing to know which projects are actually profitable.
Estimating software — Buildertrend, CoConstruct, or even Excel. Accurate estimates are the difference between making money and losing it.
Contract templates — NEVER start work without a signed contract. Include: scope of work, materials, payment schedule, change order process, dispute resolution.
Separate bank account — Your business income and personal money must be in separate accounts. This protects your LLC status and simplifies taxes.
Business credit card — Builds business credit. Keep receipts; everything on it is a business expense.
Step 5: Find Your First Projects
The first few projects come from relationships, not advertising.
Your network first — Tell everyone you know you're starting a construction business. Friends, family, neighbors, former employers. Your first 3–5 jobs will likely come from people who know you.
Subcontracting — Contact GCs and prime contractors in your area. Offer to sub for them. This provides steady work while you build your reputation.
Home services platforms — Angi, HomeAdvisor, Thumbtack, and similar platforms deliver leads for residential work. Expensive long-term, but useful to start.
Google Business Profile — Free. Set it up on day one. Every project you complete, ask for a Google review. 10 five-star reviews will drive inbound calls.
Commercial networking — Join your local Chamber of Commerce, AGC chapter, or trade association. Commercial GCs find subs through relationships.
Step 6: Price Your Work Profitably
Most new contractors underprice. This is how construction businesses fail.
True cost of labor — Your hourly labor cost is NOT your hourly wage. Factor in: employer payroll taxes (7.65%), workers' comp, health insurance, tools, vehicle, and downtime. A $25/hr worker costs you $40–$50/hr fully loaded.
Materials markup — Mark up materials 10–20% to cover handling, storage, and procurement time. Never pass materials through at cost.
Overhead allocation — Add your monthly overhead (truck payment, insurance, phone, software, etc.) divided by billable hours to every estimate.
Profit margin — Residential contractors typically target 15–25% net margin. Commercial is lower (8–15%) but higher volume. Specialty work can command 25–40%.
Use our Markup Calculator to calculate correct pricing before submitting any bid.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
1. Working without a signed contract. Verbal agreements create endless disputes. Always have a written, signed contract with payment terms.
2. Underpricing to get work. Busy and broke is worse than slow. Price for profit.
3. Skipping lien rights. File your Notice to Owner / Preliminary Lien Notice on every job. This protects your right to file a mechanic's lien if you don't get paid.
4. Hiring employees too fast. Overhead kills new businesses. Use subcontractors and 1099 workers until revenue supports employees.
5. Neglecting cash flow. Get deposits. Structure payments to milestone completions. Never float a project with your own money.
6. No systems. Running everything in your head doesn't scale. Document processes from the start.